further kabul

very busy days here in Kabul, as it is Ramadan the times are 7am to 2 pm at the workshop then rushing to find silks and textiles for the collection. 

Hoping to do the big textile necklace with a lovely cousin of Belquis, she is employing 200 woman and needs desperately work for them - and the craftsman and women at TM are all well and really pleased I came back which is really gratifying and makes me feel all the stress was worthwhile..

Security is not good here at the moment, most foreigners on lock down, a lot of road blocks, checks etc  but have a nice driver Zia who takes us here and there. 

I was speaking to Javid's father today - a dignified and wonderful old man who had been a teacher, he was telling me how beautiful Afghan culture can be in regards to the family and community and religion then I asked what he felt about the future for the country he shook his head sadly and said there is no future for his country - it is only a land for killing and death now ...we have become animals here - was so sad - his eyes just spoke of his heart break of his beautiful country destroyed. 

Made me want to cry... when I asked what about his grandchildren lives .. he just shook his head.

walking through the bazaar every day to Javid's new workshop has been an adventure in itself, considered an unsafe area at first one walks through with caution and head down ..but then the next time you look up and smile and when you smile even the most frightening Taliban fierce face under big turbans and shawls and beards suddenly opens into a beautiful smile and wave and nod in greeting - isn't smiling wonderful?

further kabul

very busy days here in Kabul, as it is Ramadan the times are 7am to 2 pm at the workshop then rushing to find silks and textiles for the collection. 

Hoping to do the big textile necklace with a lovely cousin of Belquis, she is employing 200 woman and needs desperately work for them - and the craftsman and women at TM are all well and really pleased I came back which is really gratifying and makes me feel all the stress was worthwhile..

Security is not good here at the moment, most foreigners on lock down, a lot of road blocks, checks etc  but have a nice driver Zia who takes us here and there. 

I was speaking to Javid's father today - a dignified and wonderful old man who had been a teacher, he was telling me how beautiful Afghan culture can be in regards to the family and community and religion then I asked what he felt about the future for the country he shook his head sadly and said there is no future for his country - it is only a land for killing and death now ...we have become animals here - was so sad - his eyes just spoke of his heart break of his beautiful country destroyed. 

Made me want to cry... when I asked what about his grandchildren lives .. he just shook his head.

walking through the bazaar every day to Javid's new workshop has been an adventure in itself, considered an unsafe area at first one walks through with caution and head down ..but then the next time you look up and smile and when you smile even the most frightening Taliban fierce face under big turbans and shawls and beards suddenly opens into a beautiful smile and wave and nod in greeting - isn't smiling wonderful?

Kabul

21.8.11

It is so stunning and staggering to fly out of India, whose plains are filled with cities and roads all spewing together - to raise over the mountains and reach this incredible silent vast landscape that is a brown mountainous desert, steep valleys and snaking dry river beds, no one, no towns , cities roads, just the occasional tiny fertile green drop and small farms and terraced fields nestled in the hills. 

it is majestic and humbling. 

India was amazing - so exciting to be there at this time of Gandhian revival and to see the whole society mobilised, farmers have joined now and students and workers - Jaipur and Delhi were full of demonstrations, candle lit night vigils, protests in the monsoon rain, in the soaring mid day sun .. it has been phenomenal, I am amazed and so proud. 

Anna Hazare has managed to do something that India has not seen since Gandhi. Bringing people together, Muslims, Hindu's , different castes, led by the middle classes maybe but a peoples demand for the end of corruption. 

 

Kabul, very hot, quiet after last weeks bombs - but good to be here, there is not longer the old fort - the kala - to stay in so I am staying at a hotel - a wonky old place behind corrugated iron and machine gun guards - called the Gandamack-  there is a little garden which has lovely flowers, it is quiet and peaceful. 

22.8.11

Went to Murad khane and was so delighted to see how impressive the institute looks, with flower filled courtyards, Rumi's poems painted in elegant calligraphic on the walls and the rooms filled with students learning - woodwork, calligraphy, ceramic's and jewellery, the warren of buildings are filled with laughter and life. Having watched the restoration over the last four years it is wonderful to see it now as it was meant to be, a peaceful place of learning and creativity. 

It was wonderful to see everyone again and Javid has moved to a great new workshop with more space and air - delighted to see the girls cutting and polishing stones  - I have not seen girls working with stones anywhere else in Asia - what a victory!

We sat on the floor and discussed the new collection the materials and designs - drawings and stones brought out for discussion and tomorrow work will start. 

It is Ramadan and so only half days at work ..

23. 8. 11

Today we went to find silks for the new collection, driving through terrible traffic and road blocks, army and police circling with machine guns - but smiles too..

We went to visit the jewellery school, I was so impressed by a young woman who is the only girl in year one - she is deaf and dumb but brave enough to face a class room of boys and learn a new skill - I was humbled.

Work is moving at a good pace, should see the first enamelled butterfly pieces tomorrow ..

went to rummage with in Chicken street - looking at old jewellery and ceramics to find inspiration. Stalls of fur coats, sheep skin coats, heavy wool shawls, silver Turkmen jewellery, Russian tea pots and old watches, Ikat coats from Uzbekistan and silk Chapan's from the south of Afghanistan ...many treasures to be found here.. 

I love walking in the street, Zia who is driving us walked close by past stalls of fresh Afghan bread being bought for feasting when the sun goes down, carts of fresh grapes and melons... past moter bikes with beautifully woven donkey bags slung over them and carpeted saddle's.

So much to see, so much to absorb.. 

Independence Day India

Arrived in monsoon Delhi in time to witness the very moving independence day celebrations, with the flag raising in the warm rain and singing of the stirring national anthem it all brought my close to tears to think of Gandhi and all those who sacrificed their lives for an independent India 


I imagine waking on this morning 65 years ago and knowing after 300 years and a long struggle the country was free of colonial  rule. 

It is so sad then to open the newspaper and read about the accusations of corruption within the government, and to read the tragic story of the Advivasi's of India, the tribals who have lost so much, India is a remarkable country but still so many problems ...
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